Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
